Looking up to Ghana 

By Okey Ndibe 

For those Nigerians given to boasting about the alleged “dividends of democracy” under the present disposition, I recommend a visit to the neighbouring West African nation of Ghana. Their impression, I confidently predict, is bound to be at once sobering, eye-opening and humbling. I should know. 

I arrived in Accra, Ghana, on May 17 to attend the 32^nd annual conference of the African Literature Association jointly hosted by the University of Ghana and New York University. It was my second visit to that country in four years. This time, as in 2002, I came away impressed by the nation’s considerable strides both in infrastructure as well as human development.  

Ghana’s Kotoko International Airport offers the first glimpse of a nation grounded in civic ethos. Both the immigration and customs officials treated you with a courteousness and cheer that was refreshing and reassuring. Emerging outside, one saw a crowd of people awaiting passengers. Yes, some of them pressed forward to offer you taxi cabs or help with pushing your luggage, but you didn’t feel an overpowering sense of danger. The retinue of would-be helpers retreated when I told them I expected a friend to pick me up. When I couldn’t find my welcome party, a total stranger generously offered his cell phone to enable me to ring up my friend.  

A few years ago, my wife’s handbag had been stolen Murtala Muhammed International Airport. The bag contained my wife’s and son’s passports, my green card, all the money we were going to spend on our vacation as well as more than three thousand dollars some acquaintances had asked me to deliver to their relatives. Executed with stunning speed and disarming efficiency, the operation left us at the mercy of philanthropic friends and relatives. One of them even replaced the money I had agreed to carry for others. Once preyed upon, I learned to gird myself around airports. Arriving in Accra at night, I saw a calmer, less chaotic scene than I was used to in Lagos. Even so, I didn’t permit my attention to wander.  

It turned out that I hadn’t seen my friend because he had been caught up in a meeting and had, instead, sent his driver. It’s become my wont, whenever I visit an African nation, to inquire about the state of power supply. I put the question to the driver as we drove to my hotel. His report was delivered in a dour tone. Power outages, the driver said, occurred once or twice a week. In the five days I spent in Ghana, I attended events in two hotels as well as the University of Ghana in Legon. I also visited a private home. At no time and in no place did I witness any power outage. Not once did I hear the drone of a power generator.  

Nobody would credit Accra with having some of the best roads in the world. But this much must be granted the city: Its roads are in far better shape than what one sees in most Nigerian cities. Even more impressive is the relative cleanliness of Accra streets. There were patches of eyesore here and there, but the city left the impression that its residents cared about the look of their surroundings.  

On the third night of the conference, several hundred participants gathered at PAWA House, the modest quarters housing the Pan African Writers Association. The occasion was the bestowal of this year’s Nichols-Fonlon Prize on Nigeria’s own Femi Osofisan, one of Africa’s outstanding dramatists. It was a stirring celebration, highlighted by Osofisan’s acceptance speech, a compendious commentary on the challenges facing Africa’s tribe of creative artists and scholars, and also filled with poetry and palm wine, dancing and laughter and good cheer. The event lasted till late at night. Afterwards, a Nigerian-born businessman drove Osofisan, Biodun Jeyifo, Abiola Irele and me to our respective hotels. There was nothing of the sense of apprehension, even of terror, to which one is accustomed while traveling at night in, say, Lagos. Ghanaian police stopped us twice. They demanded and looked over the driver’s documents. To my pleasant surprise, they conducted themselves in an entirely professional manner. There was no attempt to shake down the driver and his all-male passengers. There was no ploy to invent a “crime” and hoist it on the driver. No appeal, direct or covert, was made for the driver to “drop” something in exchange for our freedom to navigate the streets.  

This sense of professionalism pervaded every aspect of Ghanaian life. Immigration officers did not bear a snarl on their faces, ready to welcome you, not with a smile but with barks. Customs officers did not threaten to confiscate your personal effects unless you forked over some cash. When a doorman held the door for you at a hotel, he did not make you feel you owed him money for doing his job. When you used a bathroom, the janitor did not ambush you, metaphorically hanging on your shoulder, bowing his head obsequiously and wishing you God’s prosperity, all in an effort to ensure that you “settled” him. It was a relief to visit a country where a smile was not paid for, where a bathroom run carried no price tag, where the police did not use their uniforms and guns to fleece innocent citizens.  

Ghana chastened me. It brought home the reality that Nigeria, with all its bountiful resources, lags tragically behind. It forced me to ask the question whether oil wealth has not, after all, been a curse on Africa’s most populous nation. By most accounts, Ghana is a poor country, perhaps even poorer than the net worth of one or two of Nigeria’s ex-military rulers. Why then is this nation able to achieve so much with its humble resources while Nigeria, exponentially richer, continues (in the inimitable words of Chinua Achebe) to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory? Ghana has been led by a succession of educated as well as highly enlightened, even if imperfect, politicians. By contrast, many a Nigerian derides enlightened, morally astute seekers of elective office as not possessing “what it takes” to be elected. And what it takes, when you ask, happens to be a lot of cash stolen, in the first place, from the public treasury. Why do too many of us deify mediocrity, ascribing wisdom to men and women whose expertise is simply in thievery?  

Ever ready to wallow in self-delusion, Nigerian officials routinely wax about producing another Nobel laureate in a few years or putting a Nigerian on the moon or rivaling China’s economic strides. Dreaming is not only good, it is a concomitant of any real and substantial progress. But there’s dreaming and then there’s delusion. The two words begin with the same letter, but we must not confuse one d for the other. Until Nigerians realize that we must get the small things right; until it dawns on both the Nigerian leadership and citizenry that we must first strive to be like Ghana before we can hope to be like China; unless we humbly acknowledge that we are now in the bizarre position of looking up to Ghana, all this talk about adventuring into remote space and mass producing laureates and out-shining China is a whole load of (you fill the blank)!

Robot  Villager

# 1 For those Nigerians given to boasting about the alleged “dividends of democracy� under the p...Read the full article. Posted by Robot| 31.05.2006 08:31

Okolo  Villager

# 2 Another excellently written thought provoking editorial from one who clearly feels deeply for our country. However, it is always too easy to excoriate Nigeria and its chronic leadership failures. The time has come for well meaning Nigerians to profer ideas instead of criticism. Granted, ideas are merely ideas which invariably fade away when not matched with action, but we must remember that every action worth taking likely started as an idea. I believe that Nigeria has a critical mass of intelligent, experienced and well meaning professionals to turn the country's fortunes around. The first step has to be educating the masses on how societies work, their role and power in the society and their role in selecting effective leaders. The people must be made to realize that they are the final arbiters when it comes to chosing their leaders (elections cannot be rigged without human complicity). Nigeria's fortunes will change when enough people realize that a society gets the leaders it deserves and deliberately set out to ensure that Nigeria gets the leaders it deserves. The task is not an easy one but we must start somewhere. The best place to start is political education of the masses. It is the solemn duty of every well meaning Nigerian patriot to shout the idea that ultimate power resides with the masses from every rooftop until enough Nigerians hear and sublimate that idea. Posted by Okolo| 31.05.2006 09:55

Onos  Villager

# 3 Thanks to kleptocracy at all levels and the bastardization of whatever infrastures and systems implemented prior to the oil boom, Nigerians are now getting tranquility in the streets of Accra, honeymooning in suburbs of Kumasi and sending their kids to high schools and colleges across Ghana. I've even heard that major exports from Lagos are now required to be transferred to Ghana where international shipments out of the Gulf of Guinea are now consolidated. Instead of taking a prudential lesson from their Ghanian counterparts, the ever-wasteful Nigerian officials are beating their chests about owning 40+ homes in and outside of Nigeria and flying business class (with entourage) all the way to the US to attend a useless 4 hr seminar. This is just the beginning. Give it a couple more years and Nigerians will be required to apply for visa before entering Ghana. Soon afterwards and GMG will become NMG. EE Posted by Onos| 31.05.2006 10:08

BiafranPrincess  Villager

# 4 I share the writer's pain with our country's obvious lack in both infrastructure and human resource development but contrary to the general belief that we can only go from bad to worse, I am very optimistic that we CAN turn our nation around. It may seem like a daunting task but let us start with the little things. Next time I visit Nigeria, I pledge to do the following: I will NOT bribe the immigration officers, rather I'll talk to them about the need to project a civil image of integrity, I'll form a volunteer group with a few friends and clean up our street, donate dustbins to be placed at strategic locations on the streets, go door to door in my neighbourhood and speak with the guards, drivers, helps, homeowners on keeping their environment clean, I'll visit my alma mater- from primary to university and contribute at least something to each even if it is just my time. I honestly admit that I was one to always point out the negatives of my country and its lack of visionary leadership but after deep reflections, I can honestly say that Nigeria didn't fail me, I failed her. I studied on scholarship from secondary to university level, I was opportuned to also have free primary education, thanks to Jakande. I will serve the country of my birth, the same way I serve my adopted country; with all my heart and with all my might. Lets join hands and rebuild our nation. This for me, is no time for excuses. I'll keep you all posted on my journey back home. Posted by BiafranPrincess| 31.05.2006 12:14

Steve

# 5 I guess it now appears that Okey is done with Obasanjo, the arch-enemy of his "catchment area" against whom he had waged a proxy war for so long. His next victim that is due for bashing is our nation. Here are sections of his article: "Ghana’s Kotoko International Airport offers the first glimpse of a nation grounded in civic ethos." How? Anything special about Kotoko Airport? "Both the immigration and customs officials treated you with a courteousness and cheer that was refreshing and reassuring. Emerging outside, one saw a crowd of people awaiting passengers. Yes, some of them pressed forward to offer you taxi cabs or help with pushing your luggage, but you didn’t feel an overpowering sense of danger." Oh, please!! What's the difference between this scenario and that of M. Mohammed Airport? In the past couple of years that I've been visiting Nigeria, it was this same scenario that welcomes me. As for the Immigrations and Customs guys, it's the dubious Nigerians that usually attract negative treatments from them. Most times, I have witnessed a situation where some arriving Nigerians obviously have something to hide. When an arriving Nigerian thrust a passport filled with dollars or some other hard currency to a customs officer, automatically, the Customs officer knows that something is fishy and so would like to satisfy his or her curiosity. But afterwards, the same dubious Nigerian traveller will turn around to condemn the entire Customs. At the rate many corrupt Customs and Immigrations officers are being fired in Nigeria, only a cursed, reckless officer will ask me for bribe when I don't give him or her any reason to suggest that I'm carrying a contraband or fake passport. And here is a classic cynical one from Okey. "A few years ago, my wife’s handbag had been stolen Murtala Muhammed International Airport. The bag contained my wife’s and son’s passports, my green card, all the money we were going to spend on our vacation as well as more than three thousand dollars some acquaintances had asked me to deliver to their relatives. Executed with stunning speed and disarming efficiency, the operation left us at the mercy of philanthropic friends and relatives. One of them even replaced the money I had agreed to carry for others. Once preyed upon, I learned to gird myself around airports." That was due simply to his wife's sheer recklessness or contributive negligence! May I ask Okey if he has ever travelled through the London Heathrow Airport? He should ask Dr. Abati of Guardian. He knows about it. Over there at Heathrow, they will steal your luggage right before your korokoro eyes once you're deemed careless. And they do this even in the restrooms where one has to keep his/her eyes glued to every luggage while urinating. This situation is also the same with many other airports including Kotoko Airport. The solution to it is for every passenger to be alert at airports, period! There are no angels in Ghana! "Arriving in Accra at night...I didn’t permit my attention to wander." NOW, YOU"RE TALKING!! If you had allowed your attention to wander, your luggage would be gone before you could say Chineke! Posted by Steve| 31.05.2006 12:17

Sabella Abidde

# 6 Steve, haba, na wetin our paddy Okey do you? He talk this, you talk that one; he talk that one you talk this one. Haba, make you let the man rest oooo. I dare you to write your own essay and then allow our man Okey to dissect am for you. Posted by Sabella Abidde| 31.05.2006 13:39

Auspicious  Villager

# 7 @ Steve: It is biased and simplistic to narrow down Okey Ndibe's article to "bashing (of) our nation" when anyone can easily see that the view the gentleman expressed in his article was more of a wake-up call for one and all Nigerians to rise to the challenges that face us all. He is saying, if Ghana can do it, why not us? Especially as we are rich in every sense of the word when compared to Ghana. And what is wrong with Okey Ndibe 'dogging' Obasanjo anyways? What is wrong in critisizing a leader who calls his fellow citizen an ***** in public glare? What is wrong with subjecting a leader who comes across as arrogant - one who holds the nation to ransome of his unholy, undiginifying, untruthful and dishonorable silence while tension soared across the land on the issue of the disgusting '3rd Term' idea? One who did not see it fit to apologize to the nation or at least address them after the defeat of the '3rd Term' agenda disguised as constitutional ammendment? A leader who condones the undemocratic practises of his henchmen - think Anambra and Oyo and you'd know what I mean. What is wrong with critisizing such a leader??? Okey Ndibe visited Ghana and the relative peace of mind he had while he was there was not lost on him - when compared to the chaos back home. He is NOT the first to write about such. Reuben Abati whom you mentioned in your biased commentary made the same comparisons between the two countries after he visited Ghana during their last elections. The way their electioneering process was packaged, how it was peacefully executed etc leading to the emergence of John Kufor as President..all that was touched upon. Abati didn't stop there; he mentioned the humility of public officials, the simplicity of their way of life as opposed to the reckless opulence of our leaders, how easy it was to visit the sorroundings of their Presidential Lodge without being harrassed by gun-totting, mean-looking security personel. You responded to Mr. Ndibe's following words: "Yes, some of them pressed forward to offer you taxi cabs or help with pushing your luggage, but you didn’t feel an overpowering sense of danger." by saying "Oh, please!! What's the difference between this scenario and that of M. Mohammed Airport?". Your bias against him wouldn't let you see where Ndibe had said: "..BUT you didn't feel an overpowering sense of danger". Also, when the poor man narrated the experience of his wife who lost her possessions to crafty theives at the airport in Nigeria, you proceeded to describe him has cynical(?) and blamed this situation on his wife's "sheer recklessness and contributive negligence". My question is, when does the victim of a crime of theft become the "reckless" one? Negligent, possible but reckless?? Steve's assesment of Okey Ndibe's piece is not only unfair but ridiculous. Posted by Auspicious| 31.05.2006 14:20

purple  Villager

# 8 Well written article on a sensitive subject. By virtue of years of being told we are the 'Giant of Africa' many Nigerians may find the truths contained in this article hard to swallow. No one likes comparisions that show ones loved one in a negative light. Over the years, the Nigerian government has spent huge amounts hosting and feteing other African nations. Remember the free education given to the Namibian and South African students in the 1970s, the free plane rides given to all manner head of states of other African nations and other freebies. But our governments failed to look after our own people. Having said that, my take on this is that each country is unique and should be taken on case by case basis. Nigerians should stop bashing their own country. We seem to delight in pointing out all that is wrong with us to others even when they don't solicit that information. I have been to parties where Jamaicans, Nigerians, Camerounians, Ghananians and others were present and have found that it is only the Nigeraisn that cheerfully and loudly talk about how dangerous Lagos is and how corrupt our leaders are. Lets try to do SOME of what Biafranprincess advocates. Be part of the solution, not part of the problem. Posted by purple| 31.05.2006 15:13

Turaki

# 9 Ghana could not be possibly poorer than Nigeria with all the gold deposits and its small population. Besides, they are our big brothers having gained independence before we did. All the same, well written piece by Okey. Posted by Turaki| 31.05.2006 15:27

Auspicious  Villager

# 10 Purple - Thanks for sharing your balanced view. I think people like Ndibe should not be excoriated or labelled as 'Motherland Bashers' for pointing our failings as a society. In their own way, people like him are contributing positively to the development of the country by SENSITIZING us all of our embarrassing shortcomings - embarrassing and painful given how immensely blessed we are as a country and a people. If one takes our potentials into consideration when taking stock of what exists today, one can understand the sentiments of anyone who cries out/protests about our problems. It's the equal and opposite reaction to the mismanagement that has brought us to where we are. Without people like Ndibe and Abati who use the skill of the pen to bring our plights to light and irk those who mismanage our affairs, or the efforts of people like Soyinka and Achebe etc who lampoon those who misrule/cheat us and point out some of our general flaws, we wouldn't enjoy some of the conveniences we enjoy today. People will behave with impunity on a level that will surpasses what exists today. The march towards progress and development will be much slower than it is today. Yes, we know these shortcomings exist already but we still need to be reminded as often as possible by those who witness better elsewhere where people are not blessed the way we are, yet make better use of the little they have than we do with ours. It is not enough to say we don't need to be reminded - not when the things we complain about still affects our society almost on a daily basis and we see what goes on in other less priviledged societies. As for the issue of making comparisons with other societies, it only natural that such will happen. It's been that way from time immemorial - even Biblical passages tell stories and proverbs of comparisons among brothers, sisters, king and queens. A goood example is the proverbial story of those given talents; where some buried thiers and others displayed theirs while another invested his - or so the story goes... Comparisons have come to stay in the life of men for good or worse. If we don't make comparisons, how can we better our lives as individuals and societies? How do we score who's good, better or best? Or fair, terrible or worst? Comparisons enable us appreciate how efficiently we have used our physical and natural endowments. In this latest case, comparisons between Nigeria and Ghana has shown that Ghana makes more efficient usage of the little she has than our beloved Nigeria has made of her largesse. And Okey Ndibe is saying for us to wake up and be the true Giant of Africa in deed rather than be Giant of Africa by word of mouth. Posted by Auspicious| 31.05.2006 16:05

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