Pleasure and pain of overseas travel 

By Levi Obijiofor 

Friday, 6 February 2009 

I have often wondered why, during my international travels, I receive the special attention of security agents in the form of less than friendly stares or being pulled out of line for special interrogation and drilling. Is it something about me, my luck, my personality or something about my physical structure? Is it something about the way I dress, the quality of clothes I wear, the eye glasses I put on, or the way I speak? For clarity, some of my travel experiences have nothing to do with my nationality. I’ll explain shortly.  

Travelling overseas comes with a good mix of pleasure and pain. But it is the joyful part that most people tend to recall. After five weeks of holiday in Nigeria, I was on my way back to Australia when my travel nemesis showed up at Gate 217 of Terminal 3, Dubai international airport. Last Sunday, a security official (at the entrance to Gate 217) who checked passengers’ travel documents concluded that I bore no resemblance to the passport photograph in my international travel passport.  

As soon as I handed my passport to the security officer, he flicked through the pages as if he was looking for certain evidence stuck somewhere inside my passport with which he would prosecute me. I looked at him nonchalantly. Occasionally he gazed at me with a hint of disdain. He asked where I came from. I replied. He demanded to see my Nigerian passport. I pulled it out of my shoulder bag and gave to him. He scrutinised it and handed it back to me. All the while, his fingers continued to riffle through my Australian passport. The passenger behind me was becoming restless. Occasionally he would mutter some words, perhaps his own way of expressing disappointment with the security officer’s slow pace of checking my passport.  

At one point, I asked the security official if he was having problems with my passport or if I should remove my eye glasses so he could see my face properly and compare my image to the photo in my passport. He ignored me and continued flipping through the passport pages. I stood and watched. Finally, he looked up, shot a glance at me, and said: “You don’t resemble the photograph in your passport. You look much younger in your passport photograph than you look in person.” He then fixed a long hard look at me. If he expected me to blink because of the way he was probing me with his eyes, he was mistaken. I returned to him my own gawky gaze. We were now locked in a psychological contest eyeball-to-eyeball. 

I wondered whether I should shout at his stupidity or throw in a satirical comment. I decided on none of the options. Common sense should have informed the man that anyone would look much younger in the photograph contained in an international passport issued eight years ago. The reason is simple: for everyday that passes, we grow older, not younger. But this security official was not in the mood to apply common sense. He called on his female colleague to have a look. Mercifully, the woman took one glance at the passport, looked at me and signalled to the man to return my passport to me.  

By the time my passport was returned to me, anger had already welled up to my throat. I tried to calm myself with the philosophical reminder: the ability to remain calm in the face of all provocations is the hallmark of maturity. I also reasoned that, out of every bad experience, something good is likely to emerge. This axiom proved to be true because of what happened next.  

When I got to the boarding area, I handed my boarding pass to the Emirates airline staff. The woman slipped the boarding pass through a machine that spun out some information about me. Then the woman looked at me and said: “Sir, you have been upgraded to the business class.” I couldn’t contain my joy. To be upgraded to the business class is a wish that every economy class passenger constantly dreams about. The good news proved to be the balm that finally soothed the pain and the indignity inflicted on me by the security officer.  

My experience at Dubai’s international airport last Sunday was by no means the first or indeed the worst. In August 1992, I travelled to Bangkok, Thailand, to attend a UNESCO-sponsored conference. I was a postgraduate student on an Australian government scholarship. I was in company of two other colleagues from the same university. I was also travelling with the Nigerian passport.  

As soon as I tendered my Nigerian passport to the passport control officer at Bangkok’s international airport, the officer yelled repeatedly: “Nigeria, Nigeria, Nigeria” Almost immediately, I saw other airport officials racing in the direction of the officer. I didn’t understand why the officer was shouting hysterically and why other airport officials were caught in a stampede. Could the sight of the Nigerian passport or the passport bearer be the main reason for such panic? It didn’t take long before I realised what was happening. I was upset by the way the passport control officer embarrassed me simply because I carried the Nigerian passport.  

A few minutes later, two officials led me to a small room where I was questioned about my mission to Thailand, the state of my health and whether I had in my possession the international yellow fever vaccination card. Two days later, I met a Nigerian academic who was a staff of the university that hosted the conference. I narrated my ordeal to him. He showed no emotion but explained that it was common for Nigerian passport holders to be treated like criminals in Thailand because of the extraordinarily large number of Nigerians on death row for drug trafficking. He also explained that a Nigerian professor at the University of Ibadan, who was at the conference, was subjected to a similar treatment. To rub in the insult, the professor (names withheld) was ordered to report to airport officials everyday till he left the country.  

Although I reside in Australia, my residential status has not shielded me from occasionally sad experiences at different Australian airports. I recall an experience some years ago at Kingsford Smith International Airport in Sydney. I was returning from a research trip to Nigeria and Ghana. Unfortunately, owing to industrial action by Indian air traffic controllers, the KLM flight could not pass through Indian airspace.  

The flight was forced to make an unscheduled stop over in Karachi, Pakistan, to await the end of the industrial action in India. The stop over meant that passengers in that KLM flight lost significant travel time. By the time I arrived in Sydney, I was already feeling unwell and uncomfortable owing to inability to shower or change clothes. It was in this condition that I arrived in Sydney sweating.  

As soon as a security official noticed that I was sweating, he concluded that there must be something unusual about me. I was pulled out of the queue and asked why I was sweating. I was informed by my interrogators that my sweat suggested that I was nervous for some reason. Was I attempting to export into Australia any prohibited or illicit goods? The officials wanted to know. In all my readings, I have not seen any report – published or unpublished -- which shows a direct link between a sweating passenger and an impending criminal activity.  

In January 1999, I travelled to Auckland, New Zealand, on a short holiday visa. When a customs officer saw my light luggage, he felt something eerie about me. First, my luggage had to be scrutinised to ensure that I was not carrying a dangerous weapon or prohibited goods. When the officer noticed that I had no shorts but only trousers and shirts in my luggage, his instincts triggered off an alarm. How could you visit New Zealand, a popular holiday destination, for such a few days and with trousers and no shorts? The officer asked. I told him I was not accustomed to wearing shorts. But I also asked him whether I had broken the country’s laws by visiting without shorts.  

The paradox in all these experiences is that different countries have different ways of identifying potential criminals in their airports, even if the indicators often prove to be outlandish, and even if the supposed criminals are nothing but decent, honest, and law abiding travellers.

Robot  # 1 | 06.02.2009 02:11

Pleasure and pain of overseas travel By Levi Obijiofor Friday, 6 February 2009 I have often wondered why, during my international travels, I receive the special attention of security agents in the form of less than friendly stares or being pulled out of line for special interrogation and drilling. Is it something about me, my luck, my personality or something about my physical structure? Is it something about the way I dress, the quality of clothes I wear, the eye glasses I put on, or the way I speak? For clarity, some of my travel experiences have nothing to do with my nationality. I’ll explain shortly. Travelling overseas comes with a good mix of pleasure and pain. But it is the joyful part that most people tend to recall. After five weeks of holiday in Nigeria, I was on my way back to Australia when my travel nemesis showed up at Gate 217 of Terminal 3, Dubai interna...Read the full article.

Danmeka  # 2 | 06.02.2009 03:39

Brother Levi Obijiofor, I feel your pains and sorrows, the Nigerian passport has become a chronic disease caused by the bacteria called bad leadership and no vision by our leaders, no wonder the name Nigeria or Nigerian has become a nemesis on the international scene or any airport terminal around the world. Blame our leaders who have put Nigeria back by their words and deeds.

ttonjo  # 3 | 06.02.2009 06:28

Nigeria image abroad? Only God or should I say a divine intervention can redeem the damaged done to our collective reputations abroad. Can you image some people from countries with questionable reputations, such as Pakistan, casting aspersions on Nigerians? Just recently here in London, I had a terrible experience at which Nigerians are being treated contemptously. I advertised an apartment for rent here in London, and one of the people that came to view it was a young Pakistani guy. After viewing the apartment, he asked me which country I came from, and I told him that I am a Nigeria. The first thing that came out of his mouth is Nigeria!! You people are .....this and that? (In fact, I wouldn't want to repeat what he said here). Trust me, being a very confident and bold person, I quickly reminded him of the horrible reputation of his country. And for him to have the audacity to cast aspersion at my country, I quickly put him in his place, where he rightly belonged and he immediately became apologetic. I refused to rent him the apartment anyway. I take no nonsense from the white folks not to talk of a mere Pakistani guy calling Nigerians all sort of names. In fact, it is a disgrace that our country has now become laughing stock and our so-called leaders with their non-challant attitude are doing nothing to redeem our dented image both home and abroad. It is a shame!!!:frown::rant::sad:

Tall  # 4 | 06.02.2009 08:44

Folks, Each time my sports team travelled, we were all scared I could be refused admission into the host country. I was undressed in Sweeden! I spare you the details, it was humiliating. Hilarious however, I was almost refused entry into Kano with a Nigerian passport!!! Reasons: 1. My passport was newly issued by the Nigerian Embassy in Austria, so susupicious. 2. The immigration officer felt I looked like a Ghanian. Solution: I use my European passport, only exception is when I go to Nogeria. Since then, no unpleasantries. I remain Nigerian, it is a matter of the heart. Despite the white man's paper, I know I am Nigerian first and last.

Niibel  # 5 | 06.02.2009 09:32

People get all panicky when they see a Nigerian Passport. My job takes me to Asia once every 18 months-2years. In the beginning I experienced what you wrote about here, it was very unpleasant and embarrassing. Being one with a short fuse, I gave as much as I got. Passport control and Customs in these Countries know me by my first name as a result: Hong Kong Intnl. Airport, Tokyo Narita Intnl. Airport, Suvarnabhumi Airport Bangkok and Ninoy Aquino Intnl. Airport Manila. On a recent 6 months working stint in Tokyo, I met a South African guy on the outbound flight and he got the nasty treatment when we arrived at passport control. I remember my first trip to Hong Kong. On arrival I did not give the passport control man time to think. Ah, Nigerian, he said when I placed my passport on his desk. He touched a nerve so I asked, so what if I am Nigerian? So What? He replied, there are many of your countrymen in prison here. That was it; I knew I had to put him in his place by showing him evidence of my true intent. I opened my briefcase, got out my work ID, a folder containing my work schedule and a standard letter given to us when we travel abroad, it basically states we are employed by (the company I work for), what we do, how long our posting will last and the telephone numbers for our local office and the British Embassy. With my docs on his desk, I addressed him aggressively, by his name, on his name badge: “don’t you dare speak to me in that manner, I am here to work, if you compare me to prisoners in any part of the world I will report you to my Director here in HK and we will sue for defamation, can I have a word with your supervisor, you are a very rude and unfriendly man” He immediately changed his tone, a couple of his colleagues walked across the corridor and he spoke to them in Cantonese. They then turned to me and apologised on his behalf and promised they will look out for me whenever I arrive and guide me safely through Passport control and customs. Thailand is worse. I gave them the same, too. Manila is OK, very laid back and they are naturally very warm and friendly. The Japanese are very regimental, if you are easily intimidated, they will walk all over you.

Gbenga  # 6 | 06.02.2009 09:35

Last September, I went to the Nigeria High Commission in London to pick up my daughters Nigerian passport. I was told to show identification that i was the father, so i proceeded to show the man at the desk my Nigerian passport, the man looked at me and said don't you have any other form of identification. I was really baffled and asked him why. His reply was: there are all kinds of nigerian passports in circulation( meaning fake and forged). I finally showed him my UK drivers license which he promptly accepted,told me to sign for the passport and handed it over to me. Just shows you how worthless even a Nigerian embassy staff thinks the green book is.

Miliki Way  # 7 | 06.02.2009 12:12

Surprisingly, I have NEVER faced any of these embarrassing/discriminatory situations while traveling with my Naija passport. Prior to getting the US passport, I travelled EXTENSIVELY with my Naija passport with work taking me through Europe, Middle East, South America, and through some West African countries. The officials usually take my green passport, confirm there's a valid visa, inquire about the purpose and duration of the trip after which my passport is stamped and handed back to me. Not once have I encountered an official trying to insult me by making nasty remarks about Nigerians being criminals etc etc or anyone asking me to strip naked. Ah! Mba oo. For what? There's no way I would have entertained such nonsense from anyone. Impossicant! I'm not desperate to enter ya country abeg, and as long as I dey the arrival hall and I never pass through immigration desk, then I'm still on international grounds and I'm free to change my mind say I no wan enter ya country again, abi? Ti iwaju o ba se lo, shebi na to turn back begin go home. Anyhow, perhaps, I've been lucky or maybe dem dey look people eye well well before deciding on who to aggress.

Ewuro  # 8 | 06.02.2009 12:21

=Miliki Way;322412>Surprisingly, I have NEVER faced any of these embarrassing/discriminatory situations while traveling with my Naija passport. Prior to getting the US passport, I travelled EXTENSIVELY with my Naija passport with work taking me through Europe, Middle East, South America, and through some West African countries. The officials usually take my green passport, confirm there's a valid visa, inquire about the purpose and duration of the trip after which my passport is stamped and handed back to me. Not once have I encountered an official trying to insult me by making nasty remarks about Nigerians being criminals etc etc or anyone asking me to strip naked. Ah! Mba oo. For what? There's no way I would have entertained such nonsense from anyone. Impossicant! I'm not desperate to enter ya country abeg, and as long as I dey the arrival hall and I never pass through immigration desk, then I'm still on international grounds and I'm free to change my mind say I no wan enter ya country again, abi? Ti iwaju o ba se lo, shebi na to turn back begin go home. Anyhow, perhaps, I've been lucky or maybe dem dey look people eye well well before deciding on who to aggress. Even Wole Soyinka complained that he was treated badly by immigration officials in certain countries like South Africa and even the UK for carrying Nigerian passport.

Lalakokofefe  # 9 | 06.02.2009 12:31

=Gbenga;322346>Last September, I went to the Nigeria High Commission in London to pick up my daughters Nigerian passport. I was told to show identification that i was the father, so i proceeded to show the man at the desk my Nigerian passport, the man looked at me and said don't you have any other form of identification. I was really baffled and asked him why. His reply was: there are all kinds of nigerian passports in circulation( meaning fake and forged). I think this sums it all up ....

Miliki Way  # 10 | 06.02.2009 13:15

=Ewuro;322417>Even Wole Soyinka complained that he was treated badly by immigration officials in certain countries like South Africa and even the UK for carrying Nigerian passport. Ewuro: What I relayed in my previous post was my personal experience. Yes, many Nigerians are being singled out and subjected to some form of discrimation because of the Nigerian passport, no one is disputing that. In fact, to dispute that would be akin to disputing the existence of racism just because one hasn't been directly subjected to racial discrimination. However, the truth remains that there are people like me who, serendipitously or otherwise, have never encountered such discriminatory situations when travelling and I think sharing such an experience is also worthwhile.

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