Yes, it is true what they say about Accra; clean, orderly and all that. But one of the first things that catches your correspondent's eye, right from Kotoka International Airport, is the sheer absence of motorcycles, except for a few privately operated ones.

Now if you live in Abuja or any of tens of other cities in Nigeria, it would certainly be hard to imagine roads without the ever-revving commercial motorcycle taxis known variously as achaba, okada, akauke or going. And yet that's the way it is in Accra--the streets are for the most part free of those feisty riders who have never once thought traffic lights and rules apply to them.

So no menacing bikers. But say hello to hawkers, especially at traffic lights, trying to sell everything from the ubiquitous 'pure water' to slim books going for what at first seems an outrageous 10,000 bucks. When you learn the arithmetic involved in converting naira to cedi (1-60), you'll breathe easy. But at a naira value of roughly 167, wonder why a man is walking about in the sun selling a 40-pager that's not exactly promising to make you instantly richer or live longer.

The driver of the hotel bus, noticing that you're eying the slim volume with more than a passing interest, offers to buy it for you so you can square him his 10,000 when you've converted cash. Good deal. So now what's really with this book?

Edited by a John Westwood, this book that's just the size of some nouveau riche's show-off wedding programme is titled Wise Cracks II: J J Rawlings. Open to the introduction and learn that Westwood has collected some of the former Ghanaian leader's sayings--for a second time, no less--because "The philosophy of Rawlings is unusual and clearly requires major study. " Okay.

So let's study this: "If an animal would bite you it would be because it is wearing your dress." Can you figure out what Rawlings meant when he said that? Well, actually, it would seem he somewhat mangled a saying in the Twi language to the effect that, "If an animal would bite you, it would do so from your clothing." Westwood provides a table which translates this proverb to mean, "If anything should go wrong with you, check your closest pals." Somewhat like that warning your mother always gave you about minding the company you keep, not so?

Leaf through this book that's beginning to feel like a rip-off and find something to smile at on page 16. "What is democracy?" Rawlings is reported to have asked in 1991. He went on to say, "Even God was unable to practice democracy, that is why when Lucifer rebelled against him, he drove him away from heaven." Logical, eh?

Now on to page 24 where Rawlings serves a gem: "I keep saying I have nothing but an "O" Level but I think a bit better than some of these people with doctorate degrees who say they want to be Ministers of Finance of this country. They open their big mouths and say the Cedi is sick, what does that mean? I wonder where and how they managed to get their doctorate degrees." If that doesn't tickle your funny bone, throw the book away and forget all about it because there's no money-back guarantee.

Meanwhile, ponder for a minute why a book of sayings by Rawlings is material for hawking. Is the hawker selling enough to justify his pounding the centre of the road under Accra's fiery sun? Having moved on, can't ask the man but chances are if the book isn't 'moving', the man won't be trying to 'move' it.

So what's the relationship between Rawlings and the ordinary Ghanaian in the street? Nostalgia for the most part and your correspondent chats to a number of people before drawing that conclusion. Lovelace Danquah, a hotel steward, says: "Of course, Ghanaians like him and want him back. During his time things were better. That man try for this country waa, but his people no see!"

Felix, a taxi driver echoes Lovelace's position as does Francesca who works in a bureau du change. Gifty (Naa) Norley Norley Bandoh, an articulate journalist with The Chronicle offers a dissenting voice, saying that JJ (as Rawlings is fondly called) is just a noisemaker who needs to shut up and stop making a fuss over President John Kufuor whom she doesn't see as any shining star either.

Shoving Ghanaian politics aside and official business over with, your correspondent and a newfound friend, Maimuna from The Gambia, hit the town. 'Asanka Locals' an eatery in Accra's Osu quarters with a mini historical photography entryway welcomes us with the warning "Watch Your Step". Rightly so, it has to be said, because the pictures in that entryway, ranging from Kwame Nkrumah (pictured with England's Queen Elizabeth at Ghana's Independence) through boxing great Azuma Nelson to several pre and post independence major Ghanaian figures, are enough to distract the unwary visitor into actually missing his step!

Standing at the open pots boiling with all sorts of edibles at 'Asanka Locals', we're soon joined by a Nigerian couple on honeymoon wearing 'and co'. We smile at ourselves, shake hands all round, say our business in Accra and where we're staying.

Next, your correspondent and Maimuna settle for 'banku' which is, for the most part, fermented corn that's been made into a semo-like solid paste. In this corner that goes down with groundnut soup while Maimuna prefers okro. Naa, our Ghanaian journalist colleague, would rather chat on the phone than eat anything. In the foreground (certainly not background), the late Luther Vandross jams away noisily.

Afterwards we walk through the quarter, coming upon Papaye Fast Foods which we will patronise the next day and be given enough rice for three people in one serving! Meanwhile, for this night it's decision time: to ride the 'trotro', Accra's version of the Lagos molue, or not to do so. Naa thinks it'll be fun. But your correspondent, and as it turns out Maimuna too, are wary of buses so we settle for a taxi instead.

Back at the hotel it's only 8.00pm and a night hawk is bored to madness. Maimuna declines a ride to explore the city at night so the lone ranger sets off on his own and finds little of note to report.

Next day plays out at markets after the day's business. Makola. Kantamanto. At Makola we spot a slim teenager hanging out with a friend and while Naa gets on with her shopping, Maimuna and this writer argue about the teenager's probable age. 15 or 16? You know what? Why don't we just ask her?

Crazy idea but people have done crazier things. So we approach the girl. Of course, you can't just say to her "Excuse me, please how old are you?" Well, as a matter of fact you can. With a little preamble. That's provided from this corner. Maimuna gets prodded to pop the age question--girl to girl, less aggro that way. Maimuna does. Girl just can't believe it. Laughs and tell us she's 17. We've both lost.

Lastline: Ghanaians are probably not going to like this but while their clean capital city was enjoyable enough, abeg, mek dem no vex, but dem no just get babes at all! Two days only and guy man dey cry for naija like wetin!

Robot  # 1 | 06.05.2006 16:16

At Makola Market we spot a slim teenager hanging out with a friend and while Naa gets on with her ...Read the full article.