Who’s Afraid of African Hair?
By Chichi Layor

Hair is an emotive subject for many African women (and some African men). When the term 'good hair' has been used, it has often meant long, straight, soft and silky, Caucasian-like hair. And hair that isn’t ‘good’ is obviously short, coarse and tightly curled, (or, in African American speak, 'kinky' or 'nappy').

From the pressing combs to the earlier straighteners, permanent relaxers, jheri (or ‘jerry’) curls and more recent weaves, black women and men everywhere have sought to make their hair 'more manageable'. But I wonder whether there aren’t other reasons.

Maybe ‘more manageable’ is really a euphemism for, well, ‘more like white people’s hair’, you know? I expect some people will disagree strongly with that statement, and that’s OK. The politics of black hair is a controversial subject.

Today, 'natural hair styles' are increasingly being sported, but most African women (and some men) still have their hair chemically processed in some way. For many years I, like many of my female friends and peers, would have my hair processed at great expense, despite the pain, discomfort and hair loss. But not any longer. Many years ago I decided to stop processing my hair.

I remember when I first started had my hair in locks (formerly known as dreadlocks) some years ago. A few African women made disparaging remarks about my hairstyle and tried to talk me into wearing a more 'acceptable' hairstyle. I told them I could choose what I did with own hair. And I changed my hairstyle again a few years later, for my own reasons.

I'm not going around telling other African women who choose to process their hair to go natural. It’s entirely up to them how they choose to wear their hair. But it wouldn’t hurt anyone to find out more about the contents of the hair products they use.

The safety of many of the ingredients in many hair products, particularly those marketed to Africans and African Americans, has not been determined. Clearly, this hasn’t stopped the widespread use and sale of these products. For many African women, having “manageable” hair would seem to be more important than the health consequences of using strong chemicals.

Having ‘manageable’ hair is so important that many African women have their children’s hair chemically processed from an early age. Maybe this encourages the development of rewarding (for the manufacturers and retailers of black hair products) and conflicted long-term relationships between African women and their hair.

You may be interested to know that the Center of Environmental Oncology in Pittsburgh, U.S. has studied the links between personal care products and cancer. Their findings show a possible link between the use of personal care products containing estrogen and estrogen-like hormones and the greater incidence of breast cancer in black women under 40, when compared to white women.

Just so you know, hair products that contain hormones include the placenta-based products that were very popular in Nigeria many years ago.

OK, I admit to having used these products myself in the past, and I shudder to think that I used them without really thinking about the ingredients. Had I been more informed, I would have asked a couple of questions at least. Like, how was the placenta obtained? And was I encouraging any unethical practices, however indirectly, by my purchase of hormone-containing products?

But I didn’t even think about these issues at the time. I was younger and less knowledgeable at the time – not much of an excuse, I know. We live and learn.

Did you know that regular use of products containing hormones like estrogen has been linked to premature sexual development? No, I didn’t make this up.

The Center of Environmental Oncology has investigated the earlier onset of puberty in African-American girls (when compared to European-American girls). Apparently, many doctors have reported that some African-American toddlers aged between one and three years developed breasts when their mothers applied products containing hormones (placenta, for example) to their hair. If you would like to read more about this, go to http://environmentaloncology.org/AACancerRisks5

If you found any of this information useful, feel free to share it with the women in your life. They may thank you.

Chichi Layor has published two collections of poetry: BREAK EVERY RULE and LEOPARDS, ORACLES AND LONG HORNS. She has also written a weekly column for the Nigeria-based Vanguard. She currently lives in the UK. 

Robot  # 1 | 26.07.2008 09:15

Who’s Afraid of African Hair? By Chichi Layor ...Read the full article.

WaleAkin  # 2 | 26.07.2008 10:11

Good article for our women who have lost touch with their roots! I remember with apt nostalgia when my two elder Sisters plaited their hair weekly at the local Onidiri ! They had such styles as: Ojo n p'eti Suuku Patewo Panumo Aja n loso Koroba These same Sisters are westernised so much now that they dont even do that Aja n loso again Damn.............Talk about values cum cultural erosion at its peak!!

Dewdrops  # 3 | 26.07.2008 11:10

=Robot;4295075672>Who’s Afraid of African Hair? By Chichi Layor ...Read the full article. I love "African Hair" oooooooooooooooooh! Especially "puff puff" and "juju braids"! :D The one I will not do is that nasty looking one with "black thread" called "some gaps" abi na "sun-gass" una dey call am? :lol: I also like perms, dry curls, crimps and all those oyinbo weaves too. Variety is the spice of life. All a matter of choice which should be respected. Afro? No way Hosea! Low cut (Onyeka Onwenu). . . . no way Javier! "Gorinmakpa". . . . . no way Sanchez!

overdryv  # 4 | 26.07.2008 11:59

In life, people sometimes learn the hard way. In this case the author discovered the side effects of chemicalizing ones hair. But I bet she would be a lone voice in this battle of putting sense into our sisters. This issue has come up a couple of times in the past and one is quickly labeled old fashioned if one points out the shame and dangers of hair treatment. The practice of chemical treatment of hair is closely linked to bleaching. The main reason for this is that the black woman feels very inferior with her kinky hair and would do everything to look white. The problem is further aggravated by our menfolk who scorn at black women with plaited hair or low cut. The black woman has always had problem with her hair. Our mothers plaited their hair which though doesnt feel comfortable, but is far better than what obtains now. Later, the "hot comb" was patented and that "oyibo" look became vogue. Now our women have gone too far. With the arrival of perming, looking white became commonplace. The most annoying aspect is to see a black woman in the streets of a european city with permed blond hair. Sometimes I have had to change coach to avoid the shame. What do white women think when they see such black women with blond hair? How can a black woman possibly have blond hairs? How can one be black and proud with bleached skin and blond hairs. This problem has sunk into the subconscious of black women that it is not uncommon to find 70 year olds still patronizing saloons to perm their hairs. There was even a time in American history when some Afro-Americans tried to fight against women trying to look white. They tried in vain to fight for retention of the kinky hairs. The issue has now been settled. When next you see a great grand Ma lying in state, watch closely, her hairs are permed.

Dewdrops  # 5 | 26.07.2008 12:22

Sorry I don't feel inferior. I feel "pweeetier"! That "jungle look" no dey reign again I beg. Even Tarzan or George of the Jungle will not even look at that "Afro" look once not to talk of twice. Braids? Gives too much "Mama Eko". See some Nigerian girls hair don chop for front finish like "Mama Ibadan" head. :lol: Most are forced to wear wigs because of the "coarseness" of the hair and the tension caused by too much pulling/brushing in the front of the head. Most ladies in their 20s look like in their 40s and 50s with that braids of a thing. All these men making noise here will not look at an African lady with half a blink if she dares show up on a date with some "African Hair Do". See the way our Nigerian brothers dey pursue our Ameri-dudu sisters with long weaves and fake nails for hia oooooooooooooooooh! What a bunch of hypocrites! Please everything causes cancer these days. . . . . I will take my chances with perms please. Better than the headache of "nappiness" with going "natural". Gosh! I can't sleep after combing out that kinky hair of a thing. Try "fixing" any of your daughters hair without texturizing that thing first. You will start crying for them too. I can't stand to put them through that kind of torture please. All in the name of answering "African or Carribean" Queen! God forbid bad thing! :lol: Easy for guys to say. All you can do is wear low cut or shave your hair off. What do you know about the pains of keeping the "African Female Hair" manageable? Make una dey make mouth. Let me see how many of you will let your daughters carry "Afro" to school. Option1: Risk of cancer from chemicals used to process nappy African hair. Option2: Risk of getting an aneurysm(ruptured blood vessel in the brain/intracranial hemorrhage) from constant headaches with combing natural hair. Everyone has a choice to make. Something is bound to kill you. So choose! :cool:

Bode Eluyera  # 6 | 26.07.2008 13:21

Thanks a lot for this article. Just yesterday, I posted a comment to an article titled "Nigerians and their white counterparts" where I complained and rebuked the present craze of Nigerian women to have the same kind of hair like Europeans. Every time, I watch Nollywood films, to my greatest surprise, disappointment and embarrassment, I always notice that all the actresses have their hair FRIED! I am just wondering what is going on in that country. Has the COLONIAL MENTALITY AND INFERIORITY COMPLEX gone to such a level in Nigeria? Frying and COLOURING hair has become a very big fashion among our ladies. Plating hair is now OLD-FASHIONED. Have our women been BRAIN WASHED by Europeans to such an extent that they are no more proud of plating their hair, and prefer to look like Europeans? In those days, hair styles like 'Ipakoelede,' 'Kojusimikinkojusie' and other hairstyles were very popular. And our women looked very beautiful with their hair plated. Most importantly, they looked ORIGINAL AND NATURAL. The typical African hair style/plating was one of the things that made them African and unique. It's a pity and shame that our women have lost their natural beauty and originality. The most worrying part, as you have rightly pointed out in your article, is the health hazard and the danger our women unknowingly subject themselves to in their quest to look like Europeans. What they forget is the fact that the hair texture of Africans and Europeans are completely different. And, in order to make the hair of an African look European, they subject the hair to FRYING and all sorts of chemical treatment, which eventually not only damage their hair, which undergo IRREVERSIBLE transformation, but as well lead to diseases like cancer. Your article is timely. There is a need to take serious measures in order to correct this anormally. Unfortunately, you did not mention in your article if Prof. Duro Akunyili is aware of this development, and what she is doing about it. If she is not aware of this problem, then, it will be appropriate if you can draw her attention to this serious problem. Secondly, there is a need to start a nation wide campaign, perhaps through an NGO, about the health hazards of these imported creams. Most importantly, the campaign should focus on the need for our women to go back to the roots by plating their hair as they did before, and be proud of their NATURAL and BEAUTIFUL African hair, which is in no way inferior to Europeans.' One of the things I enjoy most is when Russian women rub my NATURAL AFRICAN HAIR. They really enjoy the process! The bitter truth is that many Europeans would have wished they had all the things we have. God has given us natural beauty which, unfortunately, we don't cherish. WE ARE ALWAYS COPY CATING. WHAT A PITY!!!

overdryv  # 7 | 26.07.2008 13:33

DD, Think again! if we did not come in contact with Oyibo, nobody would be talking of here chemicals. If you read my post you'd see where I mentioned that we the men are part of the problem. If we did not always think of white women with their long hairs while doing "vono work" we should appreciate our women for what they are. The Harambe women in Namibia still use a special clay to treat their hair and their men love them. I guess the problem you have is that it is too hard for you to imagine an African woman without perms. Even in Nigeria of old, the Fulani never touched Hair Relaxer and they looked pretty cool in their weaving. One thing I like about this thread is that it was authored by a sista. Anyway sha no worry, yu na still my sista. _________________________ _________________________ Bode, Thanks a lot with your insightful post, just saw it immediately posting mine. Maybe this would make DD rethink her position. It is not that one is targeting anybody. But one must say the truth at all times. This topic is closely related to our embracing anything foreign. Even with the author's admission that chemical treatment of hairs has proven to result in cancer, our sistas would rather take the risk. The urge of looking white far outweighs the negative effects.

Dewdrops  # 8 | 26.07.2008 13:41

Overdryv, Thank you! It is not a matter of imagining African woman as not being beautiful. The hair is very difficult to manage. Especially for children. Time consuming and very painful. I can't see my daughter with blood shot eyes every week or so because of some. If I dare come near her with a comb without any texturizers first. . . . . . . . .we will be running aroundt the house for days. Nothing gets done. High blood pressure for all including the dog in the house. :lol: I go through the same thing. It is very painful. That is for "Harambe" people please. Fulani texture of hair and bini texture of hair are not the same. I just feel it is a matter of choice. All kinds of hair dos have individual appeals. No one is inferior or superior to the other unless one has racial sentiments which I do not. The author of the article has stated her case, for health reasons. Others will make their up their own minds. I can imagine African women without perms of course, if they can handle it. My hair is terrible and as soon as I go natural, I can NEVER comb that thing straight. In Nigeria I had to wear low cut till I entered to University to do "Jheri curls and perm". Thank God. I say the hair is very difficult to manage oooh Even now I can't wait more than 4 weeks for a relaxer, otherwise. . . . .I am a dead duck with migraines. So, it is not all about being beautiful or inferior. It is what works. Like you said. . . . .our African men do not like that fulani or harambe thing ooooooooooh. If I dare put my hair in a pony tail this man go begin dey shout for inside this house:lol: IT MUST BE FREE FLOWING AT ALL TIMES, so he can run his hands through as he likes. All I hear is when are you gonna fix this hair please? So you see our men are partly to blame too. So we cannot blame the women entirely. Whatever the man wants in regard is what women will aspire to maintain, because he is the one to appreciate it besides you, the female. Thank you for being my brother.

Rose  # 9 | 26.07.2008 13:58

Now that there is a resurgence in men "nuking" their hair...are they trying to appear white as well? Are whites who die on tanning beds or inject their lips with collagen trying to look black/African?

DeepThought  # 10 | 26.07.2008 14:48

Now that there is a resurgence in men "nuking" their hair...are they trying to appear white as well? Maybe, maybe not. Are whites who die on tanning beds or inject their lips with collagen trying to look black/African? Maybe, maybe not. The idea of Beauty, like most things human, to my mind is both innate and learned. I think the point of the article was to try and get more black people to make a conscious effort to rethink their concept of beauty. I don't know about you, but I can't deny that we have learnt, at least in the African community that its more beautiful to look white. Oooooh Rosie, That hair!, That hair!!

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